2024.03.25

Two Centuries of Perseverance | Discoveries

Cognac consumption in China
Since Cognac was introduced to China in the 19th century, it has been the drinking of choice for Chinese that like to flaunt its success. The epitome of chic, it is consumed at banquets and festivities. It is also a prestigious gift for business relations.

©Photo:©BNIC /Nikada/Istock Photo

For what was at first little more than a spirit for European expatriates quickly attracted the Chinese upper classes of these coastal regions. A century later, it was the elites of these then economically advanced territories who exerted an influence on emerging Chinese fashions. These elites had gradually incorporated Cognac into their culinary practices.

The image of high class and exquisiteness has given Cognac an overwhelming advantage in the competitive world of imported spirits. At the turn of the century, around one million bottles were imported into the country every year. Today, the figure is closer to 32 million in 2023 . In the VSOP segment, China alone accounts for 30%  of the value sold worldwide.

Photo:©BNIC /Stéphane CHARBEAU

In Chinese social contexts, banquets and various festivities, toasts are made to the sound of ganbei, a "cul-sec" well known at dinners between business partners. An eminently social gesture, then, which can also take another form: that of a prestigious gift given to those you wish to flatter. This is the famous Chinese relationship, the system of relationships that is strategically maintained to ensure the smooth running of business. Quality is just as important as the bottle itself, and this is driving brands to compete creatively to develop bottles with flattering shapes, through collaborations with contemporary artists.

Photo:©BNIC /Stéphane CHARBEAU

Today, the young generation has become a consumer group that cannot be ignored, and their consumption habits have changed dramatically compared to the older generation. To maintain the upmarket status while becoming "cooler”, therefore, Cognac is actively making changes, such as exploring how to better integrate Cognac into the emerging cocktail culture.

Photo:©BNIC /Konoisseur

Cognac is trying to break into new territories by adopting more innovative marketing strategies. One example is the city of Chengdu, in the western province of Sichuan, where, for a fee of around 5 euros, consumers were recently able to buy 'adventure cards' from electronic vending machines, giving them access to a glass of Cognac with their dinner in certain restaurants in the city. The digital world is also being mobilized to attract these new customers, with the help of influencers on social networks.
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